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When assembling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee renowned high-end venues. However, situated high among these culinary titans is a modest salonu situated in a distant area of north London.

A Shocking Honour

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has made the family totally astonished.

“I’m completely shocked,” says a proprietor, referring to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble place earning such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its former charm. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. When the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.